Any journey with Alexander Theroux is an education. Possessed of a razor-sharp and hyperliterate mind, he stands beside Thomas Pynchon as one of the sharpest cultural commentators of our time. So when he decided to accompany his wife — the artist Sarah Son-Theroux — on her Fulbright Scholarship to Estonia, it occasioned this penetrating examination of a country that, for many, seems alien and distanced from the modern world.
Visiting an unfamiliar city is usually best when you have a guide, a knowledgeable local pal who can show you the hidden treasures of his or her hometown. In the most ideal scenario, this friend would be motivated by sensibilities similar to your own--which is why so many traditional travel guidebooks, with their emphasis on well-trod landmarks and obvious institutions, are of such limited utility to travelers with offbeat tastes. But this is no typical guidebook. Learn More